Since we’ve been getting up so early we decided to beat the crowds and get to the Fushimi Inari Taisha at 6:30 am. It seems word got out to come early as there were plenty of other tourists accompanying us up the mountain through the 10,000 torii gates. However, by the time we descended and emerged back in the city, many more tourists were present, so hurray for us.
At the entrance to the Shrine are two statues of foxes. These are the Inari foxes or kitsune. Inari is the Kami of rice, tea, sake, agriculture, industry, fertility, and foxes. The foxes were seen as protectors of the rice fields and messengers of the Kami.
This is Inari’s largest shrine, but the various other shrines to Inari throughout the country would have their own unique version of Inari, so the shrines would thus be set up for their own Inari. At least, that’s my understanding. Additionally, there are separate shrines all up the mountain to specific Kami. I’m no expert, of course.
The original shrine was founded in the year 711. Of course, a lot has happened since then, including the shrine being burnt down several times.
This fox sculpture released the holy water used to purify one’s self before entering the shrine. Never put your hands directly in the stream of water. Always use the ladle to gather water from the overflowing basin below and wash your hands and mouth outside the catch basin.
The torii gates designate the entrance to the holy domain of Kami and protect against wicked forces. The tradition of donating a gate as thanks for a wish coming true or as a desire for a wish to come true spread during the Edo period.
Over the 1300 years a great number of Tori have been offered, many of them smaller in size and left at the many shines along the path. One can still buy small, portable, and affordable torii to leave or as a souvenir. Each of shrines is covered in them. My first thought was of excessiveness, but each prayer was important to that individual. What’s more, each torii is just where it needs to be.
I can’t find the Wendell Berry quote where he explores the idea of the hubris of seeing a tree in blossom and perceiving it as wasteful. Instead, he suggests (if I am remembering correctly) that each tree grows just the number of blossoms and leaves it needs for its line to survive if it can. Seeing so many flowers floating in the wind or leaves fallen to the ground is not perceiving excess; it is everything just right as it is.
I choose to see these numerous prayers and wishes and even souvenirs as what is needed in this moment. I am here in this moment and that is just right. I take this clarity with me into those moments when I have returned home and am facing those most difficult of challenges in my life.
The walk up the mountain is no joke. We had to stop several times to recover and to evaluate our desire and ability to manage the trek (and descent) this day. It was beautiful and we particularly enjoyed the birds of the forest in some quieter moments.
We made it to the top and made an offering at the shrine there. However, it all reinforced with me the idea that one can practice gratitude and presence no matter where one is.
After descending the hill, we walked to Cafe Goo which was a delightful crowded little spot. The young server ran the show, starting with holding up a sign that said the same as her, “Cash only, okay?” Once we agreed we squeezed into a little waiting bench wedged by the window. She cleared a table and got us a seat with a laminated menu the size of the table. Lots of drinks, ice cream, cheese toast, and a tall pancake that immediately caught my eye.
This pancake was so soft and perfectly prepared. I had to eat more substantial food soon after, but it was quite the treat.
Another woman worked the drinks and an older lady ran the food prep. The server would yell out each order. The staff was in constant motion. The tiny room was packed with tourists and a line formed outside. The bustle was contagious.
Money notes displayed handwritten messages from around the world. The vibe was genuinely charming and electric. I love a place like that.
We made our way back to the hotel to get a more substantial breakfast, change some clothes after our hike, and rode the train to Nishiki Market which is famous for food stalls, but also sells other wares, mostly to tourists. On the way we walked through this other shopping area and actually bought a few things we needed.
Nishiki was kind of a disappointment for us. If you came with an appetite and curiosity I’m sure it would be fun, but it was also crowded.
After realizing it was close and walking to the International Manga Museum (which I didn’t realize was closed) we stopped for a little bite to eat and a coffee and made our way back to the hotel.
We ended up eating dinner from the hotel restaurant which was actually pretty good. We really expended our energy in the first half of the day and recovered in the second half this time.
Some times when traveling, one needs to know when to recover. We had some of that this afternoon and that’s alright.
